Licorice Root Extract for Skin: Evidence and Formula Context
Licorice root extract for skin is a botanical ingredient used in some skincare formulas, but its benefits depend on the extract and the finished product. Laboratory findings and small studies can explain why formulators investigate licorice; they do not prove that every licorice cream fades dark spots or treats a skin condition. Check the species, intended application area, complete formula, and evidence behind the specific claim before choosing a product.
By XIMONTHS • Published October 18, 2026 • English-language consumer guide for US readers. XIMONTHS sells the body-moisturizer example below. We distinguish ingredient research from product facts and have not clinically tested that product for this article.
What is licorice root extract in a skincare formula?
Licorice is a plant ingredient, but the phrase does not identify one standardized cosmetic substance. The National Center for Complementary and Integrative Health lists several licorice species, including Glycyrrhiza glabra, Glycyrrhiza uralensis, and Glycyrrhiza inflata. A product may identify a species, an extract, or a related component. Those details matter when comparing a label with a study.
An extract is also shaped by how it is prepared. The plant material, extraction method, solvent, and concentration can affect the mixture obtained. Two formulas that both mention licorice therefore need not contain the same quantities of the same compounds. An ingredient photograph of a root does not resolve those differences.
For consumers, the useful task is not memorizing every chemical name. It is asking whether the evidence being quoted actually concerns the ingredient and formula you are considering. A study of one prepared extract cannot automatically establish the effect of a different species in a multi-ingredient moisturizer with an undisclosed concentration.
Licorice extract skin benefits: what does the evidence support?
Licorice attracts interest in skincare because researchers have examined antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and pigment-related activity of certain extracts or components. These are research directions, not interchangeable promises for every bottle. The strength of a conclusion depends on whether the study involved a laboratory assay, a specific topical preparation, or a finished product tested in people.
For example, a 2019 study of glycerolic Glycyrrhiza glabra extracts investigated extraction conditions and measured properties including antioxidant activity and inhibition of enzymes such as tyrosinase and elastase. This was research on prepared extracts and assays. It did not demonstrate that the XIMONTHS body cream lightens facial pigmentation or delivers a defined clinical result.
NCCIH states that there is not enough high-quality evidence to clearly support licorice for any health condition. It notes some preliminary research on particular topical preparations for conditions such as eczema and burns, while emphasizing limitations. Those findings do not establish a treatment recommendation for an unrelated cosmetic cream, and they do not justify applying a body product to damaged skin.
| Claim you may see | What evidence might actually show | What you still need to know |
|---|---|---|
| “Antioxidant ingredient” | Activity in a laboratory test of an extract | Whether the finished formula produces a meaningful benefit in use |
| “Helps uneven tone” | Research involving particular compounds or preparations | Product-specific human evidence, application area, and outcome measured |
| “Soothing botanical” | A proposed ingredient role or limited topical research | Tolerability and evidence for the complete formula |
| “Treats psoriasis or eczema” | A reference to a different preparation or disease study | Appropriate clinical evidence and an actual treatment plan |
| “Contains licorice” | A verified entry in an ingredient list | Species, amount if disclosed, intended use, and other ingredients |
A useful reading habit is to finish the sentence: “This source studied…” If the answer is an isolated compound, a laboratory extract, or a different formula, keep the conclusion at that level. Do not silently replace it with “this cream will do the same thing.”
Does licorice root extract remove dark spots?
The ingredient name alone cannot answer that question. Research on pigment-related activity is one reason licorice appears in some cosmetic formulas, but a visible result depends on the product, the cause of discoloration, the study design, and consistent appropriate use. An unknown concentration in a body moisturizer does not establish a facial dark-spot treatment.
If uneven pigmentation is your main concern, look for a product explicitly intended for that area and purpose, with clear directions and evidence that matches the claim. Consider a dermatologist's advice when a change is new, unusual, or difficult to identify. A spot that needs examination should not be treated as a cosmetic project solely because an ingredient is described as brightening.
Sun protection remains a separate task. Licorice in an ingredient list does not establish SPF or replace sunscreen. The American Academy of Dermatology's sunscreen instructions explain appropriate use of sunscreen; do not reduce that protection because another product contains a botanical antioxidant.
Licorice root in moisturizer: evaluate the whole formula
When your goal is comfortable, moisturized skin, the complete moisturizer matters more than a single highlighted botanical. Texture, other moisturizing ingredients, tolerability, application area, and clear instructions all affect whether the product fits your routine. A formula can be useful for dry skin without being a proven treatment for the condition associated with that dryness.
The AAD's advice for relieving dry skin emphasizes practical habits such as using suitable moisturizers and reducing irritating washing practices. These daily decisions can be more actionable than searching for one ingredient that supposedly does everything. If ordinary care does not help, seek advice rather than repeatedly adding botanical products.
Keep ingredient identities precise. Oat extract is not automatically the same as colloidal oatmeal. Aloe in a list does not prove a formula suits every sensitive area. Bee venom in a product requires its own allergy and tolerance considerations. Combining familiar ingredients does not eliminate the need to review the whole label.
A body-moisturizer example with licorice and oat extract
The Psoriasis Moisturizing Cream for Dry, Itchy Skin provides a real example of how licorice appears in a body-care listing. The current 20g tube lists Glycyrrhiza uralensis, oat extract, aloe, bee venom, and water. It is presented for moisture care of dry, itchy skin in a psoriasis-care context. That positioning does not establish that the cream treats the underlying disease.
The practical features to compare are the compact tube, the intended body-care use, and the complete ingredient information. The listing does not provide a licorice concentration or a finished-product clinical trial demonstrating facial brightening. We therefore do not transfer findings about Glycyrrhiza glabra extracts to this Glycyrrhiza uralensis-containing product as a guaranteed outcome.
This is also why the product should not be selected for a completely different purpose simply because a search result says licorice can affect pigmentation. If your goal is body moisture care and the ingredients suit you, its product page is relevant. If your goal is treatment of a diagnosed skin condition, review the plan with your clinician and ask where ordinary moisturizer fits alongside it.
The listing illustrates a thin application to the intended area. Follow the actual package directions and review precautions before use. Avoid assuming a small tube means a concentrated treatment or that a botanical formula can be applied more often than directed.
How to introduce a new formula thoughtfully
Start by defining one goal you can observe, such as whether a dry body area feels more comfortable after using a suitable moisturizer. Do not combine that with unverified goals such as curing a rash or removing pigmentation within a fixed number of days. A clear purpose makes it easier to decide whether the product belongs in your routine.
- Read the complete label. Check the intended application area, directions, and any ingredients associated with a previous reaction.
- Keep other new products out of the test period. Introducing several unfamiliar formulas together makes reactions difficult to trace.
- Follow any small-area testing instructions. A tolerated small application cannot guarantee that a larger area will never react, but it can help reveal an obvious problem before broad use.
- Stop if irritation develops. Do not interpret burning, swelling, or a worsening rash as a necessary adjustment period.
- Ask about persistent symptoms. Continued itch, cracking, or inflammation may need a different explanation and an appropriate treatment plan.
NCCIH notes that topical licorice may irritate some people's skin. “Natural” therefore does not mean universally non-irritating. If you are pregnant, breastfeeding, treating a child, or managing an active skin condition, ask a clinician about the specific product rather than applying general statements about licorice to every situation.
Avoid three common evidence shortcuts
Oral evidence is not topical evidence. Research or warnings involving swallowed licorice do not automatically describe the effects of a cosmetic cream. NCCIH discusses important risks of oral licorice, but this article does not recommend oral use or suggest that a cream delivers the same exposure. Keep the route of use explicit when reading a source.
A plant name is not a concentration. Ingredient presence tells you that something is listed, not how much of a particular active compound is available in use. Even a disclosed percentage needs context about the extract and the finished formula. Do not estimate potency from the position of a marketing phrase on a product page.
A category name is not a treatment result. A moisturizer in a psoriasis-care collection may support an ordinary care need, but its placement does not prove disease control. Browse moisturizing care options for format and ingredient comparisons while keeping any prescribed treatment decisions with your clinician.
For practical scheduling of moisture care, our dry skin layering routine covers the broader daily process. If nighttime discomfort is your main question, see the separate itchy skin at night guide. Those topics should not be replaced by the assumption that adding licorice resolves every source of dryness or itch.
Frequently asked questions
Is cosmetic licorice extract the same as licorice tea or a supplement?
No. Cosmetic extracts, foods, teas, and supplements can differ in preparation, concentration, other ingredients, and intended route of use. Do not add a food extract to a moisturizer or apply a supplement to your skin to imitate a tested formula. Choose a finished product intended for the area and purpose you need.
How long should I wait for a licorice cream to work?
There is no universal timeline based on the ingredient name. The relevant timeframe depends on the actual product and the outcome being assessed. Follow its directions, watch for irritation, and avoid treating a promised number of days as evidence. Persistent or worsening skin symptoms deserve advice rather than indefinite experimentation.
Sources and product information
- NCCIH: Licorice root: usefulness and safety.
- Ciganović and colleagues, 2019: Glycerolic licorice extracts as active cosmeceutical ingredients.
- AAD: Dermatologists' tips to relieve dry skin and how to apply sunscreen.
- Product facts and illustrations checked against the XIMONTHS listing on October 18, 2026.
